K2 Against All Odds - Extended Version

Page 16

Jelle Staleman Norit K2 Dutch 2008 International Expedition

“There is no written or unwritten rule to say that you can or can’t descend in the dark. It is not like that, but it comes with experience too. The more experience you have the stronger you are, the better you are in your head. Inmy opinion it is a bit more dangerous to descend in the dark, but it is everybody’s own decision.”

Lars Flato Nessa Norwegian 2008 International Expedition

“We all wanted to do the Traverse beneath the glacier as fast as possible, to minimise the risk of getting caught by an ice avalanche. On our way through the Traverse we discussed, both internally in the Norwegian team and also with the international climbers, if we should continue after the Traverse. We asked each other how many hours we would need from the top of the Traverse, and to the summit. Also, if it was safe to continue. Rolf decided he would not like to go on for the summit because he was not 100% that day. He was not feeling sick or suffering symptoms of high altitude sickness. It just was not his best day on themountain. So he decided he wanted to finish the Traverse, and thenwait for me and Cecilie after the Traverse.

It is late. The expedition is on its way through the Traverse (Chris Klinke)