K2 Against All Odds - Extended Version

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Cas van de Gevel Norit K2 Dutch 2008 International Expedition

“There were only a few radios − I had one but not everybody did. And it was confusing because the Koreans were speaking on their radios only in their own language and they were also using a different channel from the one that we were using for contact with Base Camp. That channel was workingwell, except it was difficult to get a very good connectionwith Base Camp when using the radio in the Bottleneck. From the summit area, reception is very good and from the shoulder, also a good connection. So some people had radio, some people not…”

Chris Klinke American 2008 International Expedition

“Both Chhiring and I had a radio, Frederik and Eric both had Sat Phones because, up to that point, Frederik and I had been climbing together and Eric and Chhiring had been climbing together. The thought process was then we would have at least one form of communication if we got separated. But it never worked out − I was able to communicate with Chhiring via radio but I was not able to communicate with Eric and Frederik.” “Because no-one had taken ultimate responsibility for the whole operation, no-one was co-ordinating or communicating with all the teams. So when the managing leader got sick he talked with Eric and he did not communicate the fact that he was going down. It is one of those things.” “It was assumed that somebody was going to pick up the rope and that arrangements were made for somebody else within their party to carry the rope up, but that wasn’t what happened. Or if it was, whoever had that responsibility didn’t follow through on it.“ “Yeah, we did not have any radios at that altitude actually. So, we did not use radio. We did not speak all the time, but we were able to call each other and ask how are you doing? Are you fine? So, initially we had a deal. We had talked through all this in Base Camp. As we were four climbers, it was not realistic that all four of us could summit. But if we split up, we agreed on two − if someone was going continue we should always be two together. If three wanted to turn back, the fourth had to as well. That way we could stay together.” August 2nd around 03:00 So Close Yet So Far Marco Confortola, Gerard McDonnell andWilco van Rooijen try to stay awake in their improvised snow bivouac. The lights of Camp IV can be seen and appear to be quite close. All their yelling, shouting and waving of their headlamps goes unnoticed. The three climbers try a final time to attract the attention of Camp IV, without success. They settle down to wait for first light to facilitate their further descent. Lars Flato Nessa Norwegian 2008 International Expedition

Marco Confortola Italian K2 Expedition

“During the night at the bivouac, we were looking for Camp IV. We went outside. I explained to Gerard that if he slept, he would die. Sleeping is very dangerous. We talk a lot and try to keep awake.”